The White Mountains have long been known for natural splendor, cultural richness, historical charm and stimulating recreation—as well as some of the most beautiful scenery in the eastern United States. The White Mountains Trail, designated a National Scenic Byway, encompasses all these aspects over the course of its 100-mile route. The Trail is a loop tour that winds through sections of the 800,000-acre White Mountain National Forest and past many of the region’s most popular attractions. It can be driven in a day or can be the object of an entire vacation’s worth of relaxation, exploration, and discovery.
Parts of the Trail have been used by travelers for centuries. In the early 19th century, the works of Nathaniel Hawthorne and landscape painter Thomas Cole, among others, drew attention to the White Mountains. In short order, visitors in search of wilderness adventure and glorious scenery began to arrive in significant numbers. Many vistas we admire today along—and near—the White Mountains Trail are little changed since then. Since many visitors enter the region on I-93, we’ll begin this tour a bit south of where the Trail actually begins. The route boasts some spectacular mountain vistas, which are just a hint of things to come.
Plymouth to Waterville Valley
INTERPRETIVE SITE : Waterville Valley Region Chamber of Commerce, Rte. 49, Campton.
From I-93, take Exit 26 to Routes 3A and 25 for Plymouth and Rumney to Polar Caves Park, the first of the 16 White Mountains Attractions you encounter. The glacial cave tours, which have fascinated families for more than 80 years, are self-guided. In addition, there are petting animals, exotic birds, and gem mining. After a visit here, you’ll want to backtrack a little, to I-93 north.
Off I-93 Exit 28, at the end of Route 49, you’ll come to the Waterville Valley area, which includes the towns of Waterville Valley, Thornton, West Thornton and Campton. Waterville Valley is cupped by high peaks and encircled by the White Mountain National Forest. In this self-contained village, everything is within walking distance or a free shuttle ride.
North Woodstock to Franconia Notch
NATURAL & HISTORIC POINTS OF INTEREST: Mt. Pemigewasset and the Indian Head profile, the Basin, Boise Rock, the former site of the Old Man of the Mountain, Old Man of the Mountain Museum, Franconia Notch State Park, Franconia Notch Recreation Path, Echo Lake, Profile Lake, New England Ski Museum, Hugh J. Gallen Scenic Vista.
INTERPRETIVE SITES: White Mountains Visitor Center, Rte. 112, North Woodstock. Flume Visitor Center, Rte. 3, Lincoln.
The White Mountains Trail begins at the White Mountains Visitor Center in North Woodstock. You may be tempted to linger here to visit exhibits and the friendly bear inside the Gift Shop. The town offers a good selection of tax-free shopping at dozens of unique stores, a large selection of lodgings, superb dining and a calendar of special events. West of North Woodstock on Route 112 is Lost River Gorge and Boulder Caves, a natural wonder that has drawn visitors since the turn of the 20th century. Today you can tour the fascinating gorge on boardwalks, crawl through caves, visit the nature garden, see geological displays and pan for fossils and gemstones. Lost River Gorge is a favorite with children and adults who love exploration and scenic vistas.
The White Mountains Trail, however, follows Rte. 3 north. On that route are two very different family attractions: Clark’s Trading Post, with its trained bears, antique Americana and steam trains; and Whale’s Tale Water Park, the only complete water park in the region, recently named “Best in Class Water Park in America.”
Farther north, Rte. 3 joins I-93/Franconia Notch Parkway, a stretch that takes you through the 6,440-acre Franconia Notch State Park, along a route framed by the towering peaks of the Franconia and Kinsman mountain ranges. The Park includes the Flume Gorge, a natural 800-foot chasm with waterfalls, covered bridges, a scenic pool, glacial boulders, and Wolf’s Den Cave. Echo Lake, the Basin (a deep glacial pothole), Cannon Mountain, and the former site of the Old Man of the Mountain are further north on the Parkway. Cannon’s Aerial Tramway serves skiers in winter and sightseers the rest of the year. The New England Ski Museum at Cannon Mountain’s base, offers a look at our skiing heritage; while the Old Man of the Mountain Museum examines the famous natural stone profile. Be sure to stop and take in the views along this stretch—and don’t forget your camera!
Route 3 between I-93 and Route 302, to Twin Mountain
NATURAL & HISTORIC POINTS OF INTEREST: Mt. Cleveland Overlook, Mt. Cleveland Scenic Vista & Picnic Area, Beaver Brook Wayside Area.
This section of the Trail is brief, and is notable primarily for the wonderful Mt. Cleveland overlook, which gives you the opportunity to stretch your legs and make sure your camera is within easy reach. You’ll be needing it, because what follows is some of the most gorgeous scenery along the White Mountains Trail.
Wildlife is also plentiful along this section of the Trail—it’s an excellent area to catch sight of deer and moose in particular. Hikers should also know that the Twin Mountain area accesses a number of hiking trailheads.
Route 302 through Crawford Notch to Bartlett
NATURAL & HISTORIC POINTS OF INTEREST: Rte. 302— Crawford Notch: Mount Washington Hotel, Silver Cascade, Flume Cascade, Crawford Railroad Station, Saco Lake (headwaters of the Saco River), Willey House, Frankenstein Cliff, Bartlett Covered Bridge.
INTERPRETIVE SITE : Crawford Notch Visitor Center and Willey House Site—Rt. 302, Crawford Notch State Park.
The Twin Mountain and Bretton Woods area was first settled by Abel Crawford in 1792. Abel and his son, Ethan, built the Notch House, signaling the beginning of the hotel era there. Abel was also responsible for building the first path to the summit of Mt. Washington, a route which is still in use today. In recognition of his efforts, Crawford is deservedly known as “the father of White Mountains tourism”. Washington Resort. In 1944, the hotel played host to the World Monetary Conference, which simultaneously established the gold standard and secured Bretton Woods’ place in history.
Just off Rte. 302 in Bretton Woods is the Mt. Washington Cog Railway, the world’s first mountain-climbing cog railway. When the Cog was first proposed, the New Hampshire legislature was so doubtful of the project’s success that they gave the builder the right to build the “railway to the moon!” They didn’t get that far, of course, but today you can ride the Cog to the summit of 6,288-foot Mt. Washington. While you’re there, stop in to see the “Old Peppersass,” the world’s very first mountainclimbing locomotive, which puffed its way to the summit on July 3, 1869.
From Bretton Woods, continue on Rte. 302 as it travels past the historic Mount Washington Resort, through Crawford Notch and Crawford Notch State Park to Bartlett. Along this stretch of road you’ll encounter several scenic overlooks, beautiful waterfalls, the site of the historic Willey Slide (where in 1826, Samuel Willey, his family and two hired men lost their lives in a landslide) and the trailheads for some of the most popular hikes in the White Mountains.
Hiking trails, in fact, can be found all along the White Mountains Trail: everything from short, easy walks suitable for family groups to wilderness adventures. Trails to 20 4,000-foot summits are also accessed from variousplaces along the White Mountains Trail.
The next section of the Trail takes you through the Mt. Washington Valley. A summer resort since the early 1800’s, the area became a winter resort in the 1930’s and has never looked back. There are five downhill ski areas, miles of cross country trails and so many things to see and do that vacationers come year-round. The Valley also has a well-deserved reputation as a sales tax-free retail mecca, boasting nearly 200 stores.
From Rte. 302 in the center of Bartlett, you can choose from two routes. The shorter, open late spring to late fall, heads south over Bear Notch Road to the Kancamagus Highway; at its highest point, an overlook offers breathtaking views of Mount Washington. The more popular longer route follows Rte. 302 east to Glen, where it joins Rte. 16 south through North Conway and Conway. Before reaching Glen, you’ll find Attitash, a mountain of fun with something for everyone from alpine slides and scenic chairlift rides, to waterslides and mountain biking.
A slight detour north will bring you to a real family favorite: Story Land. As the name implies, here you’ll explore the wonderful world of childhood with all sorts of rides, activities and shows—it’s a perennial favorite that has been entertaining families for over 50 years.
North Conway and Conway
NATURAL & HISTORIC POINTS OF INTEREST: Saco and Swift River Covered Bridges, Eastman Lord House Museum, White Horse and Cathedral Ledges, Moat Mountain Range, Intervale Scenic Vista, Abenaki Indian Camp, Echo Lake State Park.
INTERPRETIVE SITES: Intervale Rest Area, Rt. 16, Intervale; Conway Visitor Center, Rt. 16, Conway; Mt. Washington Weather Discovery Center, Mt. Washington Valley Chamber of Commerce, Rt. 16, North Conway.
Route 16 passes through Intervale, past the Intervale Scenic Vista, and then continues south to North Conway. The North Conway- Conway area is said to have the largest concentration of shopping, restaurants, recreational facilities and lodgings in the White Mountains. North Conway Village is home to the Conway Scenic Railroad and its beautifully restored 1874 Victorian station. You can choose from scenic round-trip train rides of varying duration to Conway, Bartlett, or through the dramatic landscape of Crawford Notch.
Adjacent to the railroad station is the 18-hole North Conway Country Club; another golfcourse is Hale’s Location Country Club, just off West Side Road. There’s no end to the fun in this area: summer repertory theatre (in-town), concerts in Schouler Park in the center of North Conway, terrific shopping along Rte. 16 and in the villages, and a picture-perfect setting. To the west of these towns are White Horse and Cathedral Ledges, both big favorites with rock climbers. A seasonal road goes to the top of Cathedral Ledge where there’s a great view of the valley below. And at the Ledge’s base is beautiful Echo Lake State Park, with its sandy beach and picnic area.
The North-South Road, which opened in 2002, parallels Rte. 16 from North Conway Village to Rte. 302 in Redstone, and offers views of Pudding Pond, woods and fields along the way. You can access it from Mechanic Street (to head south only) or from Kearsarge, Seavey or Grove Streets, Artist Falls Road, or Settlers’ Green Outlet Village (one of the area’s largest shopping centers) and the White Mountain Outlets.
If you’re ready to stretch your legs, head for Conway or North Conway Village, either of which is easily explored on foot. You can take aself-guided historic tour of Conway using the brochure available at the Conway Public Library and at the Conway Historical Society.
Just south of Conway, Rte. 16 intersects the Kancamagus Highway, which runs for 341/2 miles from Conway to Lincoln, and completes the White Mountains Trail loop.
The Kancamagus Highway: from Conway To Lincoln
NATURAL & HISTORIC POINTS OF INTEREST: Watchable wildlife, Swift River, Dugway Picnic Area, Albany Covered Bridge, Passaconaway Historic Site, Hancock, Pemi, C.L. Graham Wangan Ground, and Sugar Hill Over-looks, Sabbaday Falls, Rocky Gorge Scenic Area, Lower Falls and Picnic Area, Greeley Ponds Scenic Area, Discovery Trail.
INTERPRETIVE SITES: Saco Ranger Station and Russell-Colbath House, near Conway on the Kancamagus Highway, Lincoln Woods Ranger Station, White Mountains Visitor Center, North Woodstock.
Undoubtedly, one of the most spectacular sections of the White Mountains Trail is the Kancamagus Highway, which stretches 341/2 miles from Conway in the east to Lincoln in the west. “The Kanc,” as it is known, traversesthe White Mountain National Forest, crossing the flank of Mt. Kancamagus and climbing to nearly 3,000 feet in the process. Along its length are numerous hiking trails, federally designated Scenic Areas, and overlooks that provide travelers with truly breathtaking views.
The highway was named for Kancamagus, an early Indian Chief of the Penacook Confederacy, who tried to keep the peace between his people and the white settlers. Repeated harassment by the English eventually ended his efforts, and ultimately brought war and bloodshed to the region. In the early 1690’s, the tribes of the Confederacy scattered, and Kancamagus and his followers moved on, either to northern New Hampshire or—in some instances—to Canada.
It was Passaconaway, Kancamagus’ grandfather, who, in 1627, originally united more than 17 central New England Indian tribes into the Penacook Confederacy. The rich flat land 12 miles from Conway is named for him. This community was first settled about 1790. The Russell-Colbath House is the only remaining 19th century homestead in the area, and serves as a US Forest Service Information Center.
At the other end of the Kancamagus is Lincoln/Woodstock, a major summer resort as early as 1870. Today it’s a year-round resort area that offers something for every recreational taste.
Golfers, tennis players, horseback riders and rollerbladers will find ample opportunity to indulge their passion, as will anglers, hikers, cyclists, kayakers and motorsports fans. The area is also known for its fine shopping and numerous restaurants, many of which you’ll encounter if you take a stroll along the main street of either town.
Lincoln offers easy access to the White Mountain National Forest, as well as the area’s many quality family attractions, including Loon Mountain with its skyride, glacial caves, mountain biking, hiking, climbing walls and more.
In Lincoln, it’s all aboard the Hobo Railroad, where round-trip train excursions cross back and forth along the Pemigewasset River, offering riders the chance to enjoy a variety of scenic vistas along the way. Most trips have a car attendant serving “Hobo Picnic Lunches” and ice cream. The Station Gift Shop offers a selection of gifts for the whole family—railroad enthusiasts in particular
Guests of the Cafe Lafayette Dinner Train enjoy fine dining and spirits in beautifully restored Pullman and Art Deco dining cars while viewing magnificent mountain vistas and lush forests. The train begins and ends its evening trip in North Woodstock.
Lincoln’s diverse past as both a vacation and a manufacturing center is evident: the former J.E. Henry paper mill, for example, today houses stores, restaurants, an inn and the North Country Center for the Arts, noted for its summer schedule of plays and children’s theater.
